How often have you visited a city that you didn’t want to leave? That’s how I felt when I visited Portland, Maine last week.
Drawn by its scenery, wine and food, my friend Sheryl and I took a whirlwind trip north. Yes, we saw lighthouses, yes we ate lobster rolls (actually just one that we opted to share given its $50 price) and yes we drank Chablis. But mostly I wondered what it would be like to spend time in a state whose license plate proclaims itself “Vacationland.”
We had plenty of good meals not all of which included wine. There was eclectic lunch fare at the modestly-monikered minute-sized Luncheonette (shout out to the curry chicken sandwich and the cabbage salad) and superb croissants from the Standard Baking Company -which I visited two mornings in a row, arriving early to secure my place in the queue.
Both had been recommended by my friend Peggy Grodinsky, the longtime Food Editor of the Portland Herald Review. Peggy had sent a long list of things to do which included a slew of dinner options. I chose three restaurants: Scales, Leeward and Wayside Tavern. Of the three Leeward had the best wine list. (I opted for the 2024 Vincent Dampt Chablis.)
All three restaurants were favorites of Peggy’s primarily for the food but they became favorites of ours too not just for the quality of the dining but for the bonhomie of the staff as well. Are people in Portland just naturally nice or is it because they live in a city with incredible views of Casco Bay and within an easy drive of the most iconic lighthouse on the East Coast?
One place Peggy didn’t mention because she’s more of a food than wine person (by her own admission) but I wanted to see was Maine & Loire, Portland’s first (and best) natural wine store. Founded in 2015 by former New Yorkers, husband-and-wife team Peter and Orenda Hale who arrived in Maine the year before, the store is home to an array of natural and biodynamic wines in an airy former warehouse space.
The Hales used to have a restaurant (Drifters) as well but running a restaurant was incompatible with family life noted Mr. Hale. The couple now operate a wine bar next to the store but its hours are much more reasonable than those of a restaurant. The wine bar closes promptly 6 p.m.- plenty of time to get home for dinner. “We call it ‘a wine shop you can drink in,’” said Mr. Hale.
The 6’8” tall Mr. Hall was not only the tallest wine merchant I’ve ever met but one of the most congenial. (Perhaps these New Yorkers were already Portland Nice?) The wines were often displayed with informative or encouraging signs, lettered by the artistic Mrs. Hale. For example: “At 10.5% this glassy groulleau is ‘glou glou.’” I’ve never called a wine “glassy” before but made a mental note to soon co-opt the term.
Although I’m not much of a natural wine drinker (as readers of my old WSJ column may recall) there were lots of wines in the Maine & Loire store that I have tasted before and loved- and others I’ve never tasted but wanted to try based on snappy labels alone. “Pork Soda” anyone? (See photo below.)
Mostly I just wanted to stay in Maine longer- a week perhaps even a month- hang out at the wine bar of Maine & Loire, take another few laps around Peaks Island on a bike and dine at the adorable new restaurant Chérie that wasn’t quite open at the time of our visit.
Indeed, Chérie owners Melody Medina and Quinn Williams were putting finishes touches on the menu/wine list when Sheryl and I walked by late one night. I knocked on the window and Mr. Williams opened the door. At my request Ms. Medina handed me the menu/wine list and I was pleased to see such dishes as Maine Halibut, Roast Chicken and Leeks Vinaigrette and wines like François Chidaine Sauvignon Blanc and Moreau-Naudet Chablis on the opposite page. “Come back tomorrow for the opening!” they said.
Alas we were scheduled to fly home the following morning “I will be back!” I said- a promise I have every intention of keeping as soon as possible- maybe as soon as next week?
The iconic Portland Head Light is an easy drive from downtown Portland where (sadly) no wine is available but there a Bite Into Maine (lobster) truck!
Fun wines at Maine & Loire wine shop
Chérie owners Melody Medina and Quinn Williams at their almost-open restaurant
Been a few years since I've been in Portland. I was a drinker of beer at that time. Sounds like Ihave some good reasons to go back.
Coastal cruise from Portland to NYC last September. Would return in a heartbeat even from Santa Barbara. Tried Scales, Fore Street, Street & Co. and Becky's Diner. Becky's had the best lobster roll on the entire itinerary. Fore Street had the best wine list by a mile. Scales was excellent but a bit hectic as was the service. Fore Stree (woodfired kitch) presented THE best pork chop I have ever tasted, not what I regularly order. Went to Street & Co not realizing it was owned by the same folks as Scales, Fore Street and Standard Baking. OH well , great visit.