Wedding Wine Woes

And a toast to true love

Every newly married couple has a different story and every wedding is unique, but one detail is almost always the same: no one serves good wedding wine.

While couples may routinely splash out on music, flowers and food, when it comes to choosing a red and a white to accompany the wedding dinner, the decision always seems based on economics, i.e., the wine must be cheap.

I’ve been served some of the worst wines of my life at weddings: Bulgarian Merlot, Connecticut Chardonnay (yes, really) and more cheap “California” appellation Chardonnay and Cabernet than I care to remember, not to mention some very dodgy Sauvignon Blanc.

Why newly married couples choose to celebrate the happiest day of their life with wines sure to give their friends and family migraines is beyond my comprehension. Why is this true? I’ve asked over and over and the answer is always some version of the same two words: Nobody cares. Nobody but nobody- not the bridal couple, nor their family or friends. No one is thinking about the wine in their glass, I’ve been told by wedding planners, catering professionals and even some sommeliers.

I’d posit that far more people care about wedding wine than wedding flowers. In fact, I’d say the number of flower-focused diners is likely far eclipsed by wine drinkers like me who would just like a glass of something drinkable to accompany the wedding chicken, meat or fish.

I’ve experienced some exceptions to the bad-wedding-wine rule: the wine at my wedding(s) and those of a few oenophile friends. And much more recently I attended a wedding at the elegant The Fearrington House Inn in Pittsboro, North Carolina where the now-happily-married couple served a very good Champagne – Lanson Le Rosé Creation 67 -in liberal amounts to a large and happy crowd.

The Lanson wasn’t on the Inn’s wine list but one that the bridal couple had chosen themselves- something that happens “maybe once a year,” according to Fearrington Village Wine & Beer Director Troy Revell. “90% opt for Mirabello Prosecco,” said Revell.

Was there a story behind the selection of Lanson Champagne? I asked George the groom, and newly married husband of my cousin Christine. Indeed, there was, said George who happily recalled how, on a trip to Italy a few years ago, he and Christine were drinking Lanson. “That was the first time I told Christine I loved her.”

Needless to say theirs was not only one of the best wines I’ve ever been served at a wedding- but one of the best wedding wine stories as well. And their wedding flowers? They were fabulous too.

Here’s to happily ever afters with (lots of) great Champagne!